Kim Mason

Pinhole Camera Photography Project

Part IV of IV : Developing the Final Print

So far you've read about the historical significance of pinhole photography, we've constructed the camera itself and you've seen how to create a negative image on photographic paper. If you're new to this four part blog you'll probably want to read the other three before this one.

In this part (the last part) we are about to make a final print using the contact print method. You will also need an extra piece of equipment for the darkroom; a 60 watt light. You could use a table lamp but remove the shade first.

DARKROOM AND SAFELIGHT ONLY : ACTIVITY
In the darkroom take out a sheet of photographic paper. With the shiny/emulsion side facing up place the paper on top of the camera. The emulsion side of photography paper feels more glossy/smooth than the reverse.
DARKROOM AND SAFELIGHT ONLY : ACTIVITY
Take the dried negative and place it face down on top of the unprocessed sheet (emulsion to emulsion).
DARKROOM AND SAFELIGHT ONLY : ACTIVITY
Place the square sheet of clear acrylic (included in the kit) on top.
DARKROOM AND SAFELIGHT ONLY : ACTIVITY
Use the elastic bands to hold everything in place, making sure they're not covering the back of the negative print. The negative and new sheet of photographic paper need as good contact as possible.
PART DARKROOM AND SAFELIGHT ONLY : ACTIVITY
Hold the top of the camera towards your 60 watts light; no nearer than 4 feet. Keep your fingers away from the paper. Switch on the light for 2-3 seconds (my negative is slightly underexposed so I switched on for only 2 seconds to compensate). You could open the darkroom door instead if it's bright outside.
DARKROOM AND SAFELIGHT ONLY : ACTIVITY
Now develop the contact print (the sheet of photographic paper under the negative) in your darkroom chemicals (following the steps in Part III).

And here (on the left) is the final print. The negative image is on the right. My positive print is still a little underexposed; so maybe 1 second under the 60 watt bulb would have been enough. But that's the nature of this type of photography. You need to keep a record of exposure times and adjust them with each new print until you have a well exposed image. When you look at the final image remember you have used historical photographic techniques. And you have a final print not dissimilar to photographs produced by the pioneers of modern photography.
Tips and Problems
Your darkroom chemicals ("developer" and "fixer") have a limited life after they're mixed. "Developer" will last about a day and goes from pale brown to brown. "Fixer" may last a few days and goes from clear to a very pale yellow.
Underexposed images are pale and need more exposure time (at camera or contact print stage).
Overexposed images are dark and need less exposure time (at camera or contact print stage).
If your paper remains white check the paper was loaded the right way round.
If your paper is black check the camera for a light leak.

I wanted this series to be as real as possible so documented actual results of the first run. I'll revisit the process over the next few weeks and see how far I can improve the image.



Useful Pinhole Photography Links
f295 - on line community of pinhole photography enthusiasts.
Pinhole Photography : History, Images, Cameras, Formulas
Pinhole Photography Theory
On line gallery pinhole camera images


Pinhole Camera Kit Supplier
Flights of Fancy
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Level Crossing Road
Selkirk
TD7 5EQ
Borders
Scotland

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